Tasting Notes
NV Bollinger Rose Pinot Noir Chardonnay
Champagne France
The NV rose sells for around twice the price of the Special Cuvee despite the fact that it is the same base wine with the addition of 5% red. It is,however, a vastly smaller production and, despite the common makeup, different enough. The colour is a fairly delicate salmon pink and it's easy enough to talk yourself into finding some red fruit characters on both the nose and the palate. It also has a gentle grip which should make it quite a good food partner. The rest is pure Bolli; complex, rich and interlaced with aldehyde.
Rating
92
Maturity
Reviewed
September 2008
NV Bollinger Special Cuvee Pinot Noir Chardonnay
Champagne France
This wine was pretty cold, but the trademark Bollinger richness and complexity didn't seem to suffer at all. It showed a fabulous array of honey, bread and nut characters with the aldehyde component beautifully in check. Despite a reasonably bracing acidity (when you really look for it) the wine appears full, rich and generous rather than particularly taut and it has afine, evolving length.
Rating
93
Maturity
Reviewed
September 2008
2005 Castello di Gabbiano Bellezza Sangiovese
Tuscany Italy
This spent 16 months in new French oak barriques and although the oak shows quite clearly it's beautifully integrated in the wine. There's quite an exotic mix of spice, dark-berry fruit, vanilla and a little earthy/forest floor development. It's quite a multi-layered wine that really needs another couple of years in bottle to show at its best.
Rating
90
Maturity
2012 - 2020
Reviewed
August 2008
2005 Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva Sangiovese
Chianti Classico Tuscany Italy
The Riserva is sourced from the oldest and best vines of the Castello vineyard. There is a discernible whiff of oak which hints at the year and a half this wine spent in barrique (25% new), which adds a little "international" complexity, but the wine remains at heart a traditional chianti; earthy, layered and quite savoury. It's showing some appealing tertiary characters balanced by dark cherry fruit and some gentle spice. It has a little more grip than the lesser chianti's in the stable, fine length and excellent balance.
Rating
91
Maturity
2010 - 2016
Reviewed
August 2008
2006 Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Sangiovese
Classico Tuscany Italy
The propganda says that this wine spent time in French oak.....but it was big, big vessels. It's a really enticing mix of quite plump, sangiovese fruit and a nice "warm brick"mineral character. It's quite soft (I'd love to see the tannins just a little more agressively)and nicely complex.
Rating
90
Maturity
Now 2012
Reviewed
August 2008
2007 Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Sangiovese
Chianti Tuscany Italy
Quite deep crimson colour with a definite brick edge. Despite the fact that this wine sees no oak maturation it still retains a pleasing, savoury note that quite nicely balances the bright cherry fruit characters. It's reasonably plump and rich with quite mellow tannins.
Rating
85
Maturity
Now - 2010
Reviewed
August 2008
2006 T'Gallant Volante Chardonnay/Pinot Gris/Viognier
Mornington Peninsula Australia
This is the T'Gallant take on the amazing, textural wines of Silvia Jermann from Friuli in Italy. It's a pretty good attempt! Aromatically it is very complex with a mix of spice, mineral and a sort of herbal not (probably from the viognier)with a beautifully rich, textural palate and quite good length.
Rating
90
Maturity
Now
Reviewed
August 2008
2008 Leo Buring Leonay Riesling
Eden Valley Australia
Like the Watervale Leonay this is currently a little closed due to post-bottling SO2, but even so this is a fabulous wine. It's firmly in the mineral and citrus spectrum, the palate buoyed by a fair bit of fresh, prickly CO2, and it is delicate in he extreme. It is built around a core of very bright acidity, and it has a length that easily exceeds two minutes.
Rating
97
Maturity
2020++
Reviewed
August 2008
2008 Leo Buring Leonay Riesling
Watervale Clare Valley Australia
2008 will be the first vintage since 1991 that 2 Leonay's have been made; one from Clare and one from Eden. The payoff is that there will be no maturation release of the wines, so it's cellar them yourself! The nose is quite fine and minerally, suffering at the moment from a little free SO2 (which will dissipate with time)which is quelling the aromatics. It's a very fine riesling; 12% alcohol, delicately fruited (reminiscent of cut apples and lemon)with a fine, zesty structure and great persistence. 93 points is probably a little conservative, and I fully expect that score to rise with more bottle time.
Rating
93
Maturity
2020+
Reviewed
August 2008
2008 Wolf Blass Gold Label Riesling
Clare Valley Australia
A mere 11.5% alcohol, which is an applaudable move by the Fosters winemaking team. It's the pristine end of riesling with exceedingly bright aromatics of limes and blossom. There is a real core of acidity and fruit in the lemon/lime juice spectrum with a twist of peppermint. Beautifully balanced and with an exceedingly long finish.
Rating
94
Maturity
now-2020
Reviewed
August 2008








